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ZW Coat - Birgitta Helmersson - PDF Pattern

ZW Coat - Birgitta Helmersson - PDF Pattern

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Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no pattern pieces to print out and tape together.

*This pattern is for personal use and non-profit use only. 

PDF sales are final sale & non-refundable.


This is a one size pattern which fits the size range below. *We are working on extending sizes in this pattern, sign up to our mailing list to find out when it becomes available.

Size 1 (EU 36 - 44)

Sewing Level: Advanced Beginner

The ZW coat is an unlined unisex oversized coat with a batwing sleeve, round collar and patch pockets. The short coat has a front button closure and the long coat has a front button closure and waist tie. Also comes with tips on how to cut a lining if you want to add this.

This pattern comes with 2 options, a short and a long coat. The short coat is suitable for beginners and up, the long coat is more suited to mid-intermediate sewers, however if you make the short coat as your first project and progress to the long coat for your next one this would work well as a lot of the steps are the same.

Recommended Tools 

Sewing machine, iron, chalk or dissolvable pen, scissors, large right angle ruler and/or long straight ruler.

Techniques used

Button holes, patch pockets, binding seams (optional), attaching a collar, hand sewing (optional)

PDF Pattern/Instruction Booklet: Includes measurements in both metric (centimetres) and US imperial (inches). Booklet/Templates are printable on both A4 or US Letter Paper size. Templates for the ZW Coat are provided in a separate document. 


*This coat is cut against the grain (cross-wise) which means that the width of your fabric determines the length of your coat.

Fabric Type

Ideal in a mid heavy weight wool coating. This can also work in a lighter wool or cotton drill for more of a light jacket or trench coat style, you will need to make sure you fuse part of your collar if you choose a lighter weight fabric.

Size One

Recommended width

 145 – 160 cm / 57 – 63 inches

Yardage required

Short coat: 140cm / 55 1/2 inches (approx 1.55 yards) 

Long coat: 200cm / 78 inches (approx 2.2 yards)

Notions (Optional)

-Bias tape or binding. Approx 3 metres / 118 inches. This can be used to finish some of the seams on the inside and is a really nice finish when using heavy coating. You can use either a pre cut binding from a roll or cut your own using a lightweight cotton or linen.

-Buttons x 3. Recommended size 2 - 2.5cm / ¾ – 1 inch.

-Iron on fusing, approx 25cm / 10 inch. Only required if you are using a lighter weight fabric and is used to fuse the inside of the collar and front facings.

-Elastic or a length of cord. This is required if you are doing the short coat hack to gather in the back hem. The size of elastic is determined by how much you want to bring in the hem.

-Lining. This coat doesn’t need a lining but the booklet includes tips on how to add one if you want to for some extra warmth. More info in the booklet on this. 


Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘PAPERLESS’ meaning that no printing of large pattern pieces is required. Instead of using full scale paper patterns, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates. We love working with this method for 3 reasons: